Champagne & Wine

Champagne & Wine

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  • LAY CHENG TAN
    LAY CHENG TAN
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    Cape's best known wine producer falls foul of Wine Standards
    Cape's best known wine producer falls foul of Wine Standards
    10 December 2004
    Off Licence News
    (c) 2004 William Reed Ltd.

    KWV winemakers shamed in illegal additives scandal

    South Africa's best-known wine producer has sensationally fired two of its winemakers after admitting they used illegal flavourings in two separate batches of 2004 Sauvignon Blanc.

    A year ago shockwaves were felt throughout the wine world when "suspiciously fruity" Sauvignons led commentators to speculate that some wines owed more to the illicit resourcefulness of the winemaker than to nature. But nobody guessed that the mighty KWV would be the one to be caught out.

    This week KWV dismissed Gideon Theron, 41, a well-known and charismatic winemaker who headed up the exclusive Laborie Estate winemaking operation for over a decade. Ian Nieuwoudt, 30, who works on the Reserve range, was also sacked, but KWV's five other winemakers were not implicated and have "recommitted" to the company's ethical code and quality assurance.

    The Wine Standards Board has been carrying out a comprehensive investigation into the use of illegal flavourings. KWV said it supplemented this by commissioning independent analysis of all its 2004 Sauvignons.

    The Laborie wine was reputedly doctored with a green pepper extract and the Reserve wine with piracine ­ a natural flavourant.

    KWV said: "Two designated lots of wine were immediately isolated. One tank was destined for a later release of the 2004 Laborie Sauvignon Blanc [which won the South African National young-wine show champion's trophy] and the other lot was destined for the 2004 KWV Reserve Sauvignon Blanc. Both wines will be destroyed under supervision by the WSB. Neither of these lots has reached the market."

    Chief executive Dr Willem Barnard stressed that the two winemakers acted on their own initiative ­ "without authorisation, permission or a mandate".

    He added: "KWV's value system and practices are aimed at the ethical and legal production of wine. It is a traumatic incident for us but we believe that it will serve as a serious warning and an example also for other winemakers.

    "KWV is one of the foremost producers in the wine industry and realises its responsibility towards the industry. We believe, however, that our quick and decisive actions, together with our proven record of quality and achievements over many years, will result in continued support from both the industry and the marketplace."

    Su Birch, chief executive of Wines of South Africa, said: "We're relieved that only one player has been found guilty and feel the process has been reliable and exhaustive.

    "The fact that the Wine Standards Board has identified the KWV as guilty shows that no one is beyond the law."

    l Who do we trust? Comment, page eight.

    UK arm deals with fallout

    Edward Cavendish, KWV's UK distribution arm, has spent this week dealing with the aftermath of the scandal even though none of the affected wines ever left their tanks in South Africa.

    Managing director Gary Proctor (right) said he hoped the reputation Edward Cavendish had carved in recent years would stand it in good stead.

    "We've spoken to as many of our customers as we could get hold of to put their minds at rest and explain that this is being dealt with quickly and professionally, not swept under the carpet," he said.

    "This is a very sad thing that's happened and a very silly thing. The South African wine business is very positive but it's got a lot of issues to address and this doesn't help anyone."

    He added: "I just think it's incredibly sad because Gideon has actually done a lot of very positive work with Laborie. He's also been incredibly silly and it's a loss as far as we're concerned. We're all pretty gutted."

    There has been speculation that relentless pressure to win awards had persuaded Theron and Nieuwoudt to break the rules. But Proctor said: "KWV has a fairly good history of winning awards in the past. I've never been aware of the company saying we've got to win more awards'."